Textiles: The Old, New, and Reused

This week I want to discuss textiles. They are the very building blocks of everything we wear, but significantly contribute to pollution and depletion of important resources. Buying your clothes based on textiles is difficult, so I don’t expect people to do so right away. Regardless, so many methods of producing new, innovative textiles are emerging and I, for one, find it fascinating! This week I want to outline various types of textiles and discuss which are considered good and bad!

The Old

The history of textiles is long and diverse. From animal skins to plastic, humans have always found new ways of constructing and wearing different materials, for better or worse.

First, I want to talk about cotton: a wardrobe staple! It has so many benefits for garment construction but unfortunately, growing cotton takes a big toll on the planet. “Conventional” cotton production makes up 18% of pesticide use and 25% of insecticide use worldwide and is an extremely thirsty crop. Farm workers, nearby bodies of water, and local communities are hurt by cotton production. Buying organically made cotton is a great way to take a stand against irresponsible cotton production. Here is a list from Conscious Life&Style that names 21 great brands that use organically produced cotton!

Alternatively, you can consider buying hemp products. While many think of it as “weeds sober cousin”, many don’t know that it has hit the runways and stores as a sustainable, fashionable alternative to cotton! It has been used for centuries to construct clothing, but is now gaining popularity as an eco-friendly option. It’s low demand for water, durability, softening with time, small demand for land to grow, and ease of growing in most soils are a few of the reasons why it is an awesome alternative to cotton! Since it is considered a “sustainable” material, it usually runs on the expensive side. There are efforts to make hemp clothing more affordable, especially considering hemp production is cheaper than cotton.

Linen is another great textile that has been around for ages. Linen production utilizes the whole plant, so there is minimal waste footprint, and it requires very little water and energy to grow! Some people are turned off by linen’s ‘earthy’ aesthetic, but I am a believer that any textile can be made to fit any style; it is just a matter of creativity and experimentation.

The New:

As technology evolved, our modes of textile production changed, resulting in the possibility to produce various synthetic fabrics! I can recognize the benefits of using nylons, polyester, acrylics, and the like for fashion and utility, but I also believe we need to be cautious about how and when we use them! Additionally, I think embracing new technology as a means to produce similar, yet eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic fibers is key to limiting fashion waste. The industry should take notes from these textile producers!

Pinatex:

Dr. Carmen Hijosa developed Pinatex, a textile that resembles leather, made from the leaf fibers of Pineapple! Unused, the leaf fibers are a source of environmental waste, so utilizing them for textiles promotes a circular economy. The leather alternative makes for some amazing garments, like this coat from designer Miriam Al Sibai. Pinatex can be used for bags, shoes, and virtually any garment!

Econyl

Econyl is a brand that produces re-generated nylon from waste found primarily in landfills and oceans, from fishing nets, fabric scraps, and virtually any other product that could contain nylon. Once the nylon is recovered from scraps, it is purified to its original form and ready to use! Econyl claims that for every 10,000 tons of raw Econyl material produced, 70,000 barrels of crude oil is saved and 65,000 tonnes of C02 emissions are avoided! I particularly like this product because it is useful for so many items, from designer handbags to materials for interior design. My favorite use of Econyl is making swimwear from ocean waste! Theoretically, this process can be repeated over and over, thus eliminating the need to produce new nylon material!

Spider Silk

Using artificially produced spider silk is one of the coolest applications of eco-friendly textile production that I have seen! The resulting fabric is biodegradable, and the production does not require spider farming since everything is artificially made. This strong textile is an awesome alternative for utility fabrics, like puffers. The North Face tested out the method with their jacket, the North Face X Spider Moon Parka.

There are so many avenues to explore when it comes to responsibly producing textiles. When using classic fabrics, like linen, hemp, or cotton, I hope designers and manufacturers consider organically produced options. Additionally, there should be increased efforts both to design new textiles, and new ways of responsibly making old ones. When it comes to textiles, we, the consumers have the power to choose what materials we buy; the rest of the battle is up to designers and manufacturers.